Stagnation Or Evolution?: The Fierce Debate Over Beauty’s Sputtering Ingredient Innovation

Beauty industry insiders have been chewing and stewing over ingredient innovation stagnation. In a recent piece in the publication Happi, for example, Akshay Talati, chief innovation officer at Supergoop, and marketer Maya Sarin address this concern. They argue that what’s happening is refinement over reinvention, and there’s progress being made in regenerative medicine, personalization, artificial intelligence trendspotting and longevity.

To explore whether others agree with Talati and Sarin’s take, for the latest edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked 19 beauty manufacturers, cosmetic chemists and consultants the following: How do you characterize the state of ingredient advancement or lack thereof in beauty today? What are the causes of that state? Are there any specific ingredients or classes of ingredients you think will be genuine breakthroughs?

Thomas Mooy

CEO, Allure Beauty Concepts

While ingredient innovation has been evolving at a steady pace, a few emerging technologies have the potential to drive real breakthroughs. Advances in biotechnology, upcycled ingredients and microbiome research are shaping the future of skincare, moving beyond surface-level improvements to deliver deeper, more targeted benefits. AI and beauty tech are also accelerating smarter formulations and personalized skincare solutions.

One of the most promising areas is bio-authenticated exosomes. These extracellular vesicles enhance cell-to-cell communication, improving how actives are absorbed and utilized by the skin. By increasing intracellular delivery, they drive deeper penetration and more precise results, elevating product efficacy.

At the same time, next-generation delivery systems such as deep delivery systems (DDS) and hydroxysomes are redefining ingredient absorption and stability. These technologies protect actives from oxidation and degradation while ensuring they reach their intended targets with maximum potency. From dermal regeneration to hair follicle repair, these advancements are paving the way for a more sophisticated, results-driven approach to skincare.

AI and beauty tech are reshaping skincare, enabling smarter ingredient delivery and hyper-personalized formulations. From predictive modeling to precision diagnostics, these advancements ensure actives are more targeted, effective and tailored to individual skin needs.

As the industry moves toward sustainable, biotech-driven solutions, the fusion of bioengineered ingredients and cutting-edge delivery mechanisms will define the next chapter of beauty, offering greater performance while reducing environmental impact.

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